What is Pecorino Sardo?
Pecorino Sardo is one of the most typical cheeses of Sardinia, strictly made with milk from Sardinian sheep, following a precise process refined over millennia and unchanged for centuries. It is a hard or semi-hard, semi-cooked cheese, which means that after curdling, the cheese paste has been heated to a low temperature, a maximum of 43°C.
In Sardinia, sheep's milk is a great economic resource, making up almost 60% of national production. From this, a wide assortment of pecorino cheeses are produced, highly appreciated and exported.
Pecorino Sardo has held the Denominazione d’Origine (Designation of Origin) since 1991 and the Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (DOP) (Protected Designation of Origin) since 1996. It is not the only sheep's cheese from Sardinia to boast this label; it is joined by Pecorino Romano – which, yes, is mainly produced in Sardinia – and Fiore Sardo.
The DOP specifies two different types of Pecorino Sardo:
- Sweet Pecorino
- Aged Pecorino
History of Pecorino Sardo
Its origin is ancient, dating back to the dawn of the Nuragic era, when the breeding of Sardinian sheep became the main means of sustenance on the island.
During the Roman period, Sardinia was the most important center for wheat production. Extensive deforestation to make way for cereal cultivation created the conditions for the establishment of large grazing areas, and thanks to favorable climatic conditions, sheep farming spread widely in subsequent centuries.
Sardinian cheese has crossed the sea for millennia. It was present on the tables of Roman nobles, and during the period of the Giudicati (Judges' rule), various varieties were exported, including Sardesco, Arborea cheese, Torres cheese, and Gallura cheese.
In the 19th century, Sardinian cheesemaking took on industrial dimensions. Centers for processing and aging even arose, producing exclusively for export to South and North America.
The production method of pecorino has adapted over the years, modernizing in techniques and tools, but still maintaining a strong traditional imprint. The main innovations occurred in the second half of the 20th century, from the 1960s, when more practical tools for measuring temperature and filtering milk were introduced.
How is Pecorino Sardo Made?
Pecorino Sardo refers to a specific dairy product, different from other sheep cheeses produced on the island, such as Fiore Sardo or Pecorino Romano. The raw material is the same, but the processing makes the difference.
Making Pecorino Sardo is not complicated but requires experience. The main difficulty lies in respecting timings, temperatures, and especially quantities, which can vary according to personal and customer preferences. All skills that are refined with practice.
First, the sheep must live in a semi-wild state, outdoors for most of the time, and graze mainly on wild herbs. This diet makes the milk very flavorful and always different, depending on the season and location, and can be supplemented, when necessary, with fodder and feed.
Ingredients of Pecorino Sardo:
• Sardinian sheep's milk
• Rennet
• Salt
• Optional lactic cultures
In the traditional method, rennet (su callu) is extracted from the stomach of kid goats, lambs, or suckling calves. However, the DOP regulations only permit calf rennet. The milk must be whole, but it can be either raw or pasteurized, as is the case in most dairies.
Traditional process for Pecorino Sardo:
Once milked, sheep's milk is generally placed in steel containers. At this point, it is poured into a large copper container called a caddargiu, filtered with the help of a wet cloth.
The next step is to heat the milk to a temperature between 35 and 39 degrees Celsius. During cooking, the shepherd usually stirs the milk occasionally with a wooden ladle made of heather or strawberry tree, called sa moriga.
Once the milk has reached the right temperature, rennet is added to initiate coagulation. Then su caddargiu is removed from the heat and left to rest for about twenty minutes, covered with a cloth.
At this point, the curd has formed, which is broken by stirring it with sa moriga and reduced to granules of different sizes depending on the type of pecorino.
Now the mixture is heated again up to a maximum of 43°C to obtain a semi-cooked cheese. Once the temperature is reached, su caddargiu is removed from the heat, and everything is left to rest, covered, for about ten minutes.
Now the cheese paste has formed, which is divided according to the number of molds desired. These slices are placed inside perforated containers called giscos or aiscos and pressed with the hands to drain the whey (su suru). This is how the cheese acquires its characteristic shape.
After 6-7 hours, the cheese is sprinkled with salt to prevent it from turning sour. The next day, it is washed and placed to dry in a cool, dry place on wooden boards, where it will continue to age.
During this period, the cheese is periodically oiled, generally with olive oil, to prevent the rind from cracking.
Until a few decades ago, shepherds made cheese next to the milking place, generally inside a traditional shelter called a barraccu or pinneto, their only refuge during periods spent in the open countryside. Before the spread of thermometers, they used to measure the temperature relying on experience and intuition, immersing their index finger or hand or elbow in the milk.
The concept of milk pasteurization did not exist, but then again, there wasn't much time for potential contamination: the milk was truly fresh. Then natural fermentation processes and acidification did their part to create the right microbial flora. And if something went wrong, shepherds were usually able to tell from the appearance and smell of the cheese.
Today, in industrial processes, milk is pasteurized before cheesemaking. To compensate for the death of naturally present beneficial microorganisms, lactic ferments typical of the region of origin are added, varying but always of the species Streptococcus thermophilus. Otherwise, the method used in dairies follows the traditional one but involves the use of modern equipment and premises with precise hygiene and sanitation requirements.
Generally, the whey that forms after cheese processing is used to make ricotta. The process is this: the whey is heated again, and a little milk and salt are added, which allows the ricotta to rise to the surface.
To prevent the mixture from sticking, it must be stirred continuously. Until, when it reaches about 90°C, the ricotta appears.
At this point, the temperature can be lowered, and with a skimmer – in Sardinian turra stampada, ispumadora, or piscaiola – the ricotta is collected and placed in a container.
Difference between Pecorino Sardo and Pecorino Romano
Pecorino Sardo is a table and grating cheese, while Pecorino Romano is mainly used grated over typical dishes of Roman cuisine. For this reason, Pecorino Sardo has a shorter average aging period, 2-4 months, compared to 5-8 months for Romano. Pecorino Sardo is less salty and has a flavor and texture that places it halfway between Pecorino Romano and Parmesan.
Both cheeses are made from Sardinian sheep's milk, but not only in Sardinia, as a certain percentage of Sardinian sheep have migrated to the peninsula along with the shepherds. Despite the name, Pecorino Romano is produced 97% in Sardinia, with the rest in Tuscany and Lazio, where shepherds have recently requested the cancellation of the DOP because it would favor Sardinian producers.
The two pecorinos have similar production methods but are processed at different temperatures. Furthermore, during the preparation of Pecorino Sardo, the cheese paste is pressed for a long time to expel most of the whey, an operation not provided for in the case of Pecorino Romano. The shape also differs: Pecorino Sardo is slightly flatter than Romano.
Differences between Pecorino Sardo and Fiore Sardo
Let's start with the most obvious difference, to the eyes, nose, and mouth: Fiore Sardo is smoked, while Pecorino Sardo undergoes normal cool aging.
Another difference is that Pecorino Sardo can also be made with pasteurized milk, while Fiore Sardo is strictly a raw milk cheese. It is the simplest cheese that shepherds could make directly in the sheepfold.
But let's move on to the differences for the more expert: Pecorino Sardo is a semi-cooked cheese, while Fiore Sardo is a raw paste cheese. In semi-cooked cheeses, the curd is broken and then reheated at a low temperature, while in the case of raw paste, the cheese is directly molded.
In short, Pecorino Sardo has a slightly more complex processing and is better suited for dairy production, while Fiore Sardo remains a typical shepherd's cheese, a so-called fermier cheese.
How to use Pecorino Sardo in cooking
Pecorino Sardo is often used in Sardinian appetizers or between the main course and fruit. And it is always present on the platters of cured meats or cheeses prepared in Sardinia for aperitifs.
It is most often served with carasau or slices of civraxiu or moddizzosu, often alongside cured meats and a nice glass of red wine. Sometimes there are also
Grated Pecorino Sardo can complete practically all first courses of Sardinian and Italian cuisine. It's hard to imagine classic Sardinian Sunday ravioli with sauce, malloreddus, and all Sardinian gnocchetti without Pecorino Sardo.
Fresh pecorino is also used in ravioli filling as an alternative to ricotta.
