“Sur lies aging” is a cellar practice that takes place during the winemaking process, typical of some specific wine regions but now increasingly widespread throughout the world.
The expression “sur lies” is of French origin. This practice, in fact, was first used in one of France’s most prestigious and famous wine regions. We are talking about Burgundy.
“Sur lies” can be translated into English as “on the lees”. “Sur lies aging” consists of keeping the yeasts, which are key to alcoholic fermentation, in contact with the wine for a more or less prolonged period.
At this point, we need to clarify two things. The term “lies” is associated with “fine lees,” which are the solid residues of fermentation, subjected to a first racking to remove some of its impurities. “Sur lies aging” specifically involves some of these sediments produced at the end of alcoholic fermentation. We speak of “lies” (yeasts) because, among all the residual substances, the exhausted and inactive yeasts represent the most conspicuous and important part.
What is sur lies aging?
In the world of wine, there are ancient practices that never cease to amaze. Sur lies aging is one of them: a cellar technique born in Burgundy, now widespread worldwide, capable of profoundly transforming the character of a wine.
Sur lies is a French expression that literally means “on the lees”. What does it consist of? After alcoholic fermentation, instead of immediately separating the wine from its sediments, the winemaker chooses to keep them together — in contact, in dialogue — for a more or less long period. An act of patience that, if carefully executed, yields a richer, livelier, more complex wine.
“Lies”: what are fine lees really?
The term lies refers to fine lees: the solid residues that remain at the end of fermentation, after an initial racking that removes the coarser impurities. Among all the substances present in this sediment, the exhausted and inactive yeasts are the most consistent and valuable part.
A note on terminology: in oenological jargon, aging refers to the evolution of wine in the bottle, while maturation occurs in barrels or steel tanks. Depending on the phase in which this practice is adopted, we speak of sur lies aging or maturation — two different moments, same underlying philosophy.
What happens during yeast autolysis?
When spent yeasts remain in contact with the wine, they do not remain inert. A process called autolysis occurs: progressive cellular destruction, during which the yeasts release substances of various kinds — amino acids, polysaccharides, lipids — that come into contact with the wine and modify its organoleptic characteristics.
The result is a wine that changes, for the better, on several fronts:
- More pronounced body and structure, with a sensation of greater fullness on the palate
- Enhanced softness, capable of counteracting the astringency of a strong tannic component
- Protection from oxidation, thanks to the oxygen consumption by the yeasts
- Chromatic and aromatic stability for better preservation
- Bouquet enriched with hints of bread crust, smoky, toasted — complex and enveloping notes
A practice that requires precision
Sur lies aging is not a shortcut. It is a demanding choice that requires constant attention, high costs, and — above all — maximum precision.
Too prolonged contact, a mistake in management, and the effects are reversed: instead of enriching the wine, the yeasts can compromise it. The line between complexity and defect is thin, as is often the case with truly interesting things.
For this reason, in white wines and red wines aged in barrels or steel, battonage is essential: the periodic stirring of the lees, brought back to the surface to prevent them from settling at the bottom and to promote their action on the wine. A simple gesture, repeated over time, that requires experience and sensitivity.
Sur lies: from white wines to reds, up to sparkling wines
Originally almost exclusively for white wines, this technique has spread over time to red wines — particularly those that mature in barriques, where sur lies aging helps counteract the astringency of tannins and soften the structure.
In classic method sparkling wines, sur lies aging takes place directly in the bottle, during the long secondary fermentation: it is one of the secrets to the complexity and finesse of great Champagnes and Franciacortas.
In white and red wines, the practice is carried out in wooden barrels or steel containers, with the support of battonage to keep the yeasts alive and their influence active.
Zankitai: our sur lies in Villasimius
We at Colline del Vento are well acquainted with this practice. We use it to create Zankitai, our bottle-fermented Orange Wine: a wine that carries all the character of the Villasimius land — granite, sun, wind — and which, thanks to sur lies aging, acquires a rare complexity, an enveloping texture, a bouquet that tells the story of its origin.
Zankitai is not an easy wine to explain. It is a wine to be drunk — fresh, in good company, letting yourself be surprised.
As it should be.
