“Sur lies aging” is a cellar practice that takes place during the winemaking process, typical of some specific wine-growing areas but, today, increasingly widespread throughout the world.
The expression “sur lies” is of French origin. This practice, in fact, was first used in one of France's most prestigious and famous wine regions. We are talking about Burgundy.
“Sur lies” can be translated into English as “on the lees”. “Sur lies aging” consists of keeping the yeasts, protagonists of alcoholic fermentation, in contact with the wine for a more or less prolonged period.
At this point, we need to clarify two things. The term “lies” is associated with “fine lees,” which are the solid residues of fermentation, subjected to a first racking to remove some of its impurities. “Sur lies aging” involves some of these sediments produced at the end of alcoholic fermentation. We speak of “lies” (yeasts) because, among all the residual substances, the exhausted and inactive yeasts represent the most conspicuous and important part.
The term “affinamento” (aging) is also often replaced by “sosta” (resting) or “maturazione” (maturation). In enological jargon, aging is the phase of wine evolution that occurs in the bottle, while maturation is its development in barrels. In short, depending on the phase in which this practice is used, we speak of “affinamento” or “maturazione sur lies” (sur lies aging or maturation).
Without delving into complex chemical-physical explanations, you should know that exhausted and now inactive yeasts, after alcoholic fermentation, undergo a process of “autolysis,” or cellular destruction, during which they release substances of various kinds (amino acids, polysaccharides, lipids, etc.) which, by coming into contact with the wine, influence its organoleptic characteristics and properties.
In particular, the substances produced by cellular autolysis allow for:
- increasing the body and structure of the wine;
- enhancing the softness of the nectar, counteracting any astringency derived from a strong tannic component;
- consuming oxygen and protecting the wine from oxidative phenomena;
- preserving and maintaining the quality of the wine and its chromatic and aromatic stability;
- enriching the aromatic bouquet with notes often reminiscent of bread crust or smoky/toasted notes.
It should be remembered, however, that this practice, in addition to requiring high costs, must be carried out with the utmost care and precision. The slightest error and too prolonged contact can trigger phenomena that would have negative effects on the nectar.
Finally, while sur lies aging was originally carried out almost exclusively in the production of white wines, today this practice is also used for red wines, especially for those that mature in barriques (to counteract the astringency caused by tannins).
While in traditional method sparkling wines sur lies aging takes place in the bottle, in white and red wines this practice is carried out in wooden barrels or steel containers.
In these latter cases, in addition to keeping the yeasts in contact with the wine, it is important to resort to periodic “stirring” (batonnage). In this way, the lees and yeasts are brought back to the surface, preventing them from settling at the bottom and thus promoting their action.
At Colline del Vento, we practice this complex technique for the creation of "Zankitai," our Orange Wine refermented in the bottle. To be drunk chilled and in good company.
